Thanksgiving time floods the papers and television waves with novel ideas to cook turkey, and new wine pairings for the annual bird. Call me a stick in the mud, but my favorite with this American feast is a toasty buttery California Chardonnay. And one of my favorite things to do with the Chardonnay (other than drink it) is to make gravy with it.
Chardonnay, originating in the Burgundy region of France, is grown in more places all over the world than any other grape. In fact it is the second most planted white grape in the world (falling to Arien, which is planted almost exclusively in Spain). For developing countries this easy to grow and vigorous grape is often their first and easiest foray into the international market.
It is a very neutral grape, picking up much of its character from the land or terroir on which it was grown and the methods used to vinify and age the wine. A crisp and elegant Chablis from the flinty hills outside Burgundy and aged in steel, is a far cry from the fruity oak bombs of California. France’s buttery Meursaults from Burgundy cant be compared to the tropical fruit filled Chardonnays of the new world. And it is a key component of sparkling wines and champagnes.
When making Chardonnays, there are two preeminent decisions a winemaker takes. The first is whether to use malolactic fermentation, which breaks down the harsher malic acid into lactic acid, which gives a buttery and smooth flavor. If malolactic fermentation is not used, the wine offers more of a green apple palate. The second decision is to use oak – or not. Without, the wines are crisper. With, depending on how much the oak is charred first, flavors of smoke, cream, spice, vanilla all appear. Since my thanksgiving table is redolent with butter, roasted skin on the turkey, creamed onions, warm spice in my squash and vanilla in dessert, I prefer the wines that are made using malolactic fermentation, with a good dose of toasty oak. California Chardonnays fit the bill.
In California, premium chardonnays come from areas blanketed in coastal fog, such as the Carneros, and Russian River Valley, which slows the ripening of the grapes allowing their flavors to develop. Truchard vineyards, in the Carneros, makes a fantastic and well structured Chardonnay that I’m happy to have on my holiday table. Grapes are harvested cold then whole cluster pressed. The wine is barrel fermented in French oak, and aged on the lees for 10 months. These techniques produce a complex, full-bodied wine with a delicate structure. I enjoyed the elegant 2004 vintage, which offered layers of hazelnut, pear, apple and spice. I checked the reviews, and each and every vintage has performed very well, so don’t fear the year!
California chardonnays can be found in all price ranges. The Truchard is available locally for about $27/bottle.
One hallmark here at Sunset Hill House for our annual Thanksgiving feast is Chef Peterson’s chardonnay pan gravy. Simply deglaze the turkey pan with a cup of the chardonnay you will be offering at dinner (layering those flavors is both unexpected and sublime), then continue on with your favorite recipe, reducing the stock or water accordingly. Don’t be concerned about wine in the baby’s food - the alcohol will evaporate during cooking.
I’ll drink to your happy Thanksgiving, filled with all the treats of this American tradition.
